Rossie to Aussie: Updates from Months 8 and 9

Catch up my cycling adventures through these blogs:

Rossie to Aussie: Launch
Rossie to Aussie: A month of Cycling Adventures and 10 months more
Rossie to Aussie: Month Three Update
Rossie to Aussie: 4th and 5th month updates
Rossie to Aussie: Cycling Through Iran and Afghanistan

A Pause and a Detour

I kicked off the eighth month of my journey in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, staying in a hostel to recover after two intense months cycling through Iran and Afghanistan. It was a welcome break, but soon after arriving, I received devastating news—my cousin Tom had tragically passed away. I had no choice but to pause my trip and return home to be with my family during this difficult time.

After spending four days at home, I flew back to Central Asia. However, I was on a tight deadline. My Chinese visa was expiring soon, and I only had one day left to cross the border. Since I didn’t have enough time to return to Dushanbe and still make it to China, I decided to fly to Almaty, Kazakhstan. From there, I took a bus across the border into China, just hours before my visa expired. It felt like something out of a movie—barely making it in time!

Reuniting with Finn

On a brighter note, I wasn’t alone for this next leg of the journey. My friend Finn, a fellow cyclist from Wexford, had joined me, ready to cycle the entire length of China. This was exactly the kind of company I needed, especially since the upcoming stretch would be the toughest part of the trip. Having someone from home by my side was a much-needed boost as we prepared to tackle what lay ahead.

The Bike: A Guardian Angel’s Mission

Now that I had made it to China, I had another problem to solve—where was my bike, Nimrod? Fortunately, two incredible women came to the rescue. While I was resting in Dushanbe, I met Chiara (an Italian) and Eva (a Frenchwoman), both hitchhiking through Central Asia on their own. After hearing about my situation, including my tight visa deadline and the sudden loss of my cousin, they offered to help. Together, they transported Nimrod across the Pamir Highway, over the third-highest mountain range in the world, and into China, where we planned to meet in the city of Kashgar.

In the meantime, Finn and I took a somewhat less direct route—12 hours by plane, 21 hours by bus, and 16 hours by train to catch up with them. It felt like the road was providing, as things fell into place despite the odds. Finally, after all the twists and turns, Nimrod and I reunited with Finn in China, and we had new friends to show for it.

Entering the Taklamakan Desert: The Ultimate Test

With the bike safely by my side, the real challenge began. Finn and I were about to face the grueling 2000km stretch across the Taklamakan Desert, one of the most desolate and inhospitable places on earth. On top of that, we were cycling through the Xinjiang province, a region that has had its share of political and social unrest. While I’ll refrain from delving into the specifics here, let’s just say it added another layer of tension to our journey.

Beyond the desert roads and the bone-chilling nights, we had to contend with increased police surveillance. There were plenty of unmarked cars discreetly following us, and at the end of each day, we were often ushered into “specific” hotels, as if we were under constant watch.

Through the Snow: Challenges Continue

The desert stretch continued into month 9, and it wasn’t until we crossed into Gansu province that we saw an end in sight. However, the police presence remained, and at times we had to dodge the unmarked cars tailing us. As winter set in, the conditions grew even harsher. On more than one occasion, we found ourselves cycling in the snow, and once, we had to ride through a full-blown snowstorm. The cold was relentless, but we pushed on.

Along the way, our route took us near the westernmost part of the Great Wall of China—a huge milestone, especially considering we had cycled all the way from Ireland. Reaching that point felt monumental, a reward for all the hardship we had endured.

End of Month 9: -10°C and Snow Camping

We ended the month camping in temperatures that dipped to -10°C, surrounded by snow. We set up camp next to hay bales and farm animals, sleeping in the cold beside a barn. As I lay there, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in a scene from All Quiet on the Western Front. Despite the harsh conditions, there was a strange peace in knowing that we had made it this far—and that we were only a little closer to our final destination. The road had tested us in ways we couldn’t have imagined, but it also continued to provide, one step at a time.

Back on Track: Resuming My Original Route

After detouring through Iran and Afghanistan instead of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, I finally rejoined my original route in Tajikistan. Although I had to skip the legendary Pamir Highway due to my sudden return home for a funeral, my bike, Nimrod, didn’t miss out on the adventure. Thanks to two amazing women, Chiara and Eva, who hitchhiked with Nimrod over the Pamir mountains and into China, she managed to experience the epic journey I had planned.

Now, I’m back on course and ready to continue my journey through China, followed by Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and eventually Australia. It feels great to be back on track, and I’m excited for the next chapters of this incredible adventure.

What’s Ahead?

In the coming month, we’re gearing up for a challenging stretch through the mountainous region of Amdo Tibet—our final encounter with rural China. The terrain promises to be tough, and with temperatures expected to plummet, we’re hoping to cross the mountains without too many nights spent in our tents at -20°C. We’re also looking forward to spending Christmas in Chengdu, where we’ll take a much-needed break from the cold and recharge before the next leg of the journey.

Target Finish Line

By far the most common question I get, and unfortunately, one I can’t give a precise answer to. With so many countries still ahead and several route options yet to be decided, it’s hard to pinpoint an exact finish date. However, my best guess at this point is that I’ll reach Sydney’s Opera House sometime between June and August 2025.

Estimated Arrival Date for Ireland?

Ah, the question my mother asks me constantly! Honestly, I haven’t given much thought to returning home just yet—my focus is still on getting to Australia. It’ll be interesting to see how I feel when I finally get there. The original plan was to work in Australia for a year or two after completing the trip, but this journey has been eye-opening in so many ways. Who knows? I might find myself missing home or even dreaming of returning to Central Asia. Only time will tell.

Heartfelt Thanks for Your Support

The outpouring of support from all of you has been nothing short of overwhelming. Thanks to your incredible generosity, this cycling journey has raised over €41,000 for Mayo Roscommon Hospice and NorthWest Stop. Your contributions are making a real difference, and the journey is far from over. Every donation, no matter how big or small, continues to have a profound impact.

If you’d like to contribute and help keep this momentum going, you can donate here. Your support means the world. Thank you!

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