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Hey, it’s Fergal here again, and I’ve got plenty of updates to share with you!
If you’re new to my journey or just want to catch up on my cycling adventure to raise funds for my chosen charities, feel free to check out the previous posts below:
Rossie to Aussie: Launch
Rossie to Aussie: A month of Cycling Adventures and 10 months more
Rossie to Aussie: Month Three Update
Rossie to Aussie: 4th and 5th month updates
Visit the Clarity Locums Instagram page to check out the latest pictures from the cycle!
The past two months have been the longest, most intense, and transformative of my life. Cycling through Iran and Afghanistan—two countries I never imagined visiting, let alone traversing by bike—has been an experience filled with both highs and lows. In hindsight, every challenge I faced along the way seemed to prepare me for what lay ahead.
Overview
I started by extending my Iranian visa in the stunning city of Isfahan, giving me extra time to cycle through the country. From there, I passed through Yazd, a desert city, and made my way to Tehran, where I obtained my visa for Afghanistan. Throughout my time in Iran, there were constant concerns about political tensions—fear of a potential military strike and the challenges of navigating U.S. sanctions, which made paying with bank cards impossible.
Before arriving in Iran, I had heard about the warmth and hospitality of the Iranian people, but nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming generosity I encountered. Every person I met invited me into their home for a meal or a place to stay, making it nearly impossible to camp at night. Food was often gifted to me in towns and villages, sometimes handed to me from the windows of moving cars. The kindness I experienced was beyond anything I could have imagined.
However, my journey wasn’t without its challenges. While cycling near the Caspian Sea, I was drugged, attacked, and ended up in the hospital, receiving seven stitches in my left foot. The hospital staff were incredibly apologetic, and as a nurse, I wasn’t overly shaken by the experience, though it did raise some concerns about drawing unwanted government attention—something you certainly don’t want in a place like Iran.
After a few days of recovery, I continued to the holy city of Mashhad to celebrate my birthday. There, I met up with two other cyclists—a Frenchman and a German—and together, an Irishman, Frenchman, and German set off to tackle Afghanistan. (Sounds like the start of a bad joke, right?)
Afghanistan was nothing short of intense. From the moment we arrived, we were surrounded by curious locals every time we stopped. Even while cycling, people would drive alongside us, asking questions in broken English. We passed through cities like Herat, Kabul, Bamian, and Kunduz, and encountered the Taliban several times. Despite the political tension, we were always treated with incredible hospitality.
Afghanistan was a land of contrasts. While the kindness of the people was overwhelming, the absence of women in public spaces was stark. Visiting people’s homes was always a strange experience—no women in sight, and an endless stream of visitors eager to see the foreign cyclists.
The landscape was equally striking. We cycled through the Afghan mountains, down into valleys flanked by towering cliffs, along roads so rough they felt impassable. At one point, we spent five days cycling through a remote valley with no phone signal, relying on the kindness of locals who were confused by the sight of three foreign cyclists. The Taliban would stop us regularly, even at unofficial checkpoints, to check our documents.
Despite all the challenges, my time in Afghanistan was an incredible experience. The generosity of the locals was a pleasant surprise, especially after being warned that the country would be hostile to foreigners. But the absence of women and the overall atmosphere made it clear that Afghanistan is a country stuck in time, centuries behind the rest of the world.
I left Afghanistan three days ago and arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, my 19th country on this journey. After two of the most intense months, I’m grateful for a much-needed rest. This experience has made me even more thankful for the freedoms we often take for granted back home.
Journey So Far
Before the last two months, I had already travelled through 15 countries and found myself in Tabriz, Iran—my 16th stop. The journey has been extraordinary, with unforgettable moments of kindness and the chance to meet incredible people along the way. The weather is getting hotter, and as I head further south, toward the desert, I expect things to get even more intense, with temperatures surpassing 40°C.
Birthday in Iran
I spent my birthday in Mashhad, Iran, which was a bit anticlimactic. I was recovering from my attack and had no one to celebrate with, especially in a country with no alcohol and limited accommodations. But the following day, I was invited to dinner by a friend of a friend, and the family made me feel so welcome. It turned out to be the uncle’s birthday as well, and we shared a cake together. It was a special moment that I’ll always cherish.
Highlights of the Past Months
It’s difficult to pick just one highlight because every day has brought unforgettable experiences. Some of the most memorable include:
Plans for the Upcoming Month
I’ll be taking a much-needed break in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, as the past two months have taken a toll on both my body and my bike. After that, I plan to cycle along the Pamir Highway and into China, where I’ll spend three months cycling through the Xinjiang province, including the Taklamakan Desert.
Realisations So Far
Leaving Iran and Afghanistan, I have never been more grateful for the life we have back home in Ireland. We often take our privileges and freedoms for granted, but seeing the poverty and generosity in these countries has made me reflect on how self-absorbed we can be in the West. We race around, complaining about minor inconveniences, without fully appreciating how lucky we are.
What Keeps Me Going
Through all the highs and lows, what keeps me going is the support I’ve received for my fundraising efforts for Mayo Roscommon Hospice and Northwest STOP. The kindness and generosity I’ve encountered on this journey have only fueled my commitment to these causes. I’m so grateful for all the donations that have come in so far, and I hope we can continue to raise much-needed funds for these incredible charities.
Donate whatever you can, and together, we could make a difference by donating here.
Sharing the stories I’ve gathered—both the good and the challenging—has also been a huge motivator. Every experience has value, and I hope others can learn from and appreciate these stories.
Thank you for your ongoing support! Stay tuned for more updates as I continue my journey. With your encouragement and generosity, I’m confident I’ll make it all the way to Australia and back home.
Donate whatever you can, and together, we could make a difference by donating here
By: Fergal Guihen
Instagram: @rossie_to_aussie
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